mistakenly went by way of the vast wilderness of the northeast ridge, not the southeast ridge as
they had thought.
A solid 5.11 climber, 28 year-old Albert Dow was an instructor at the EMS Climbing School in
North Conway. He and Michael Hartrich were part of New England's Mountain Rescue Service
sent to look for Herr and Batzer. Dow and Hartrich found the lost climbers' trail. While the two
were searching, a 3-foot slab avalanche ran down a 30-degree slope and overtook the pair. 70-
feet wide and 100-feet long, the avalanche buried Dow completely.
Enveloped and buffeted by white, Hartrich fought to stay afloat. He was dragged through a
forest of birch and fir trees and felt some break as he hit them.
xxxv
Hartrich, mostly buried, was able to reach his radio and call for help. Within 25 minutes, two
rescuers arrived to dig out Hartrich. 90 minutes after the accident they found Dow.
There was no sign of there having been any respiration while buried and CPR produced no
results. It was apparent from his obvious injuries that he had hit a number of trees.
"He had broken his back, shoulder and several ribs. They tried CPR for 30 minute to no
avail. A deep cut had not bled... he was killed instantly.
xxxvi
"
Late in the afternoon of the fourth day, a night manager for the Appalachian Mountain Club who
had gone snowshoeing found Herr and Batzer. Just before dark, the two were evacuated by New
Hampshire National Guard Huey helicopter using the jungle penetrator for Jeff, and a stokes litter
on winch for Hugh. Hugh's legs were frozen from the knees down, and Jeff had one frozen foot.
Herr lost both legs below the knee.
"Since the avalanche, the members of the search and rescue team have purchased Pieps
radio beacons and have taken a course in avalanche forecasting from the American
Avalanche Institute. Yet, any of us involved in search and rescue know that, even with the
best knowledge available, there will continue to be times when, because an individual or
group is in need of assistance, chances such as Dow and Hartrik took will be
necessary
xxxvii
."
After learning that Albert Dow was killed in avalanche searching for them, Jeff Batzer said, "We
don't deserve to be here."
Hugh Herr is now an instructor at Harvard's Spaulding Rehabilitation Hospital, and a recognized
expert in developing prosthetics for amputees.
Rescuers swallowed by crevasse while eating lunch
In October 23, 1978, members of Seattle Mountain Rescue Council for searching for two overdue
climbers on Mt. Baker. Al Errington, one of the rescuers injured during that effort, submitted the
following report. Strangely, it is not the only reported training accident that took place while the
rescuers were eating lunch.
As the rescue team ascended the Coleman Glacier they checked crevasses and
bergschrunds looking for signs of the missing climbers. At about midday SMR members Al
Errington and Joe Kassuba proceeded to check a very big bergschrund below a glacial
rock-island. After we checked this 'schrund, which was too deep to be checked in its
