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Wilderness Medical Society - snowmass 2005 (Page 81)

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Wilderness Medical Society - snowmass 2005
Equipment Failure
Listed in the preceding pages are dozens of rescue accidents that involve aircraft and most often
include operator error. Thankfully, there are few occurrences of rescue accidents in which
equipment failed... and for the few that do exist, most of them involve misuse of the equipment.
Tragedy on Mt. Rainier
On August 12, 1995, John Craver broke his ankle in a fall on the Emmons Glacier, just 900 feet
from the top of Mt. Rainier. Craver's two companions returned to Camp Muir, stating they left the
injured climber with all their extra food, water, and clothing.

Park officials were concerned that the injured climber had been left alone by his partners,
especially given that the subject was erroneously reported as being "shocky."

Three rescuers set out for the injured climber at 7:00 p.m. The rescuers included Sean H. Ryan
(23) a seasonal climbing ranger with 11 ascents of the peak, and Philip J. Otis (22), a Student
Conservation Association aide. A weekend SAR volunteer accompanied the two, but feeling ill,
the volunteer turned around after 30 minutes.

At 11:25 p.m., Ryan radioed that the two rescuers were at 12,900 feet, that it was cold and windy,
and although they were having crampon problems, they would continue. They expected to reach
Craver by 1:00 a.m.
All attempts to contact the two men after that last transmission were unsuccessful.
Leaving Camp Muir just after midnight, the second rescue team reached Craver five hours
later; Ryan and Otis had never arrived.
xxxiv

Later the next day, a climbing party found an NPS ice axe and part of a crampon at the 13,000-
foot level on the Winthrop Glacier. The bodies of the two rescuers would be found 1,000 feet
below that location. They had fallen to their death.

The rescuers reported having crampon problems, and given that part of a crampon was found at
the spot where they presumably fell, it is clear that equipment failure was contributory cause of this
tragedy.
Mother Nature
"We don't deserve to be here!"
On January 25, 1982, 17 year-old Hugh Herr and 20 year-old Jeff Batzer climbed Huntington
Ravine on the northeast side of Mt. Washington ­ well known for its extreme weather. Herr had
climbed the Exum ridge of the Grand Teton at age thirteen. At the last minute, they ditched a pack
with their bivy gear, a compass, and camera on the trail. Descending in a whiteout, they

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