f a c i a l s
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Salon Fundamentals
TM
Esthetics
protection at all. A higher SPF, such as 30,
is recommended for sports or swimming
when perspiration or water can wash away
the product. In addition, frequent reapplication
is recommended.
When selecting sunscreen, choose one that
has protection from both UVA and UVB rays.
The most effective
sunscreens contain
ingredients that act
as blockers and
absorbers. UVA and
UVB absorbers are
ingredients that absorb the sun's rays and
deflect them throughout the layers of skin. An
example is methoxycinnamate. UVA and UVB
blockers actually block the sun's burning rays
by reflecting them off the surface of the skin.
Examples of blockers are ingredients such as
titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
Additional Care
You may also recommend that a client use a mild
exfoliating product once or twice a week to remove
superficial dead skin cells. Using an exfoliant
allows for deeper cleansing of the pores, increases
moisture retention and circulation, and smoothes
the skin. Exfoliants
are either manual or
chemical. A manual
exfoliant contains a
granular substance
with a slightly grainy
or rough texture,
(referred to as a
mechanical process,
the abrasion of the
rough texture
against the face
causes a scraping
effect to remove
dead skin cells). A
chemical exfoliant,
which consists of a
natural substance such as an enzyme or alpha
hydroxy acid, works in conjunction with other
ingredients to cause a chemical reaction that
removes dead skin cells. Chemical exfoliants
generally have a smoother feel or texture when
compared to manual exfoliants. Both are very
effective for deep-pore cleansing.
Consider what happens to a grape that is left
on the vine in the hot sun: Eventually it loses
all its moisture and shrivels up to become a
raisin. The same can be said of human skin:
It is not unusual for an 80-year old to have the
smooth unblemished shoulders of a 30-
something proof that skin protected from
solar UV ages more gracefully. *
A deficiency of Vitamin C in the
body can contribute to cellular
breakdown, which, over a long
period of time, will speed up
the aging and wrinkling
process? Research indicates
that drinking a large amount
of caffeine or smoking
cigarettes over a period of time
will contribute to cellular aging.
Caffeine and cigarettes affect
the general appearance and the
internal functioning of the skin,
because they deplete Vitamin C
from the body.
The SPF of a product does
NOT indicate the number of
hours you can stay in the sun
without burning your skin.
10
Daily use of sunscreen is important to prevent
premature aging of the skin. UVA rays are not
blocked by glass, allowing skin to be exposed to
damaging UVA even when indoors. Moisturizers
with an SPF 15 or 30 have been designed to
"disappear" into the skin, allowing them to be
worn under make-up without a greasy feel.
Recreational sunscreens are a better choice for
extended sun exposure and outdoor wear as
they have been designed to be more sweat-
proof, waterproof and more rub-resistant. *
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* Skin and sunscreen data courtesy of P&G Beauty
