s k i n p h y s i o l o g y
274
Salon Fundamentals
TM
Esthetics
Product is absorbed into the skin through
openings or orifices. Chemists are devising
an ingredient that mimics the components of
intercellular cement (the substance that binds,
adds structural strength, and mediates biochemical
interactions between cells), such as lipids or fatty
acids. The goal is to create ingredients with
properties similar to those of the skin so that
they are more easily absorbed.
Skin Conditions
The skin care specialist needs to be aware of
various skin conditions, disorders and diseases to
avoid problems when performing skin care
treatments. Clients with skin disorders or diseases
should be referred to a dermatologist or physician.
Not only does this help your client, but it also
keeps you from breaking the law and overstepping
the legal boundaries of your professional license.
There can be severe consequences for those who
attempt to practice medicine without a license.
However, certain conditions such as acne, rosacea,
pigmentation problems and aging skin can be
improved by treatments that estheticians provide.
Knowledge of these conditions will help you
provide appropriate treatments and avoid potential
problems (check whether treatment is prohibited
by the regulating agency in your area). Conditions
of the skin are divided into the following
categories: rashes, infections, sebaceous gland
disorders, sudoriferous gland disorders, skin
growths, pigmentation disorders and aging factors.
The charts on pages 275 and 276 illustrate primary
and secondary lesions.
Rashes
Many conditions visible on the surface of the skin
are rashes. Characteristics of rashes include small
red bumps, urticaria (hives), blisters, scales and
erythema (redness).
FACTORS AFFECTING SKIN ABSORPTION
Have you ever applied a moisturizer to your face
and felt as if it just sat on the surface of your skin?
There are several factors that influence the rate at
which ingredients or products penetrate the skin:
·
Condition of the stratum corneum: The
thicker or heavier the stratum corneum,
the slower the rate of penetration.
·
Hydration level: The more moisture in the
skin, the slower the rate of penetration.
·
Oiliness of the skin: The greater the amount
of sebum on the skin's surface, the slower
the rate of penetration.
·
Size of the product's molecules: The larger
the molecules of the product being used,
the slower the rate of penetration.
·
Temperature of the skin: The higher the
temperature of the skin, the slower the rate
of penetration. Extremely hot or extremely cold
skin temperatures slow the rate of penetration;
skin that is neither hot nor cold will more
readily absorb the product and increase the
rate of penetration.
·
Pore size: The larger the pores, the faster
the rate of penetration.
