Relaxing Application Techniques
A chemical relaxer should be considered part of a total design. The final design that you choose
should complement the shape of the haircut as well as your client's wishes. Here we've overviewed
the application techniques you will learn in this portion of the chapter.
Virgin Sodium Hydroxide Relaxer
Sodium hydroxide relaxers can be used on any type of hair but
are especially designed for overly curly hair. A sodium hydrox-
ide relaxer is a progressive product, which means that once you
apply the product, the hair cannot return to its original state nor
can you perform a curl reformation service afterward. There-
fore, a sodium hydroxide relaxer is used to permanently
straighten the hair.
For a virgin application of a sodium hydroxide relaxer, the
product is applied to the most resistant area and 1/4" (.75 cm)
to 1/2" (1.25 cm) away from the scalp up to the porous ends. To ensure a thorough application,
partings should be approximately 1/4" (.75 cm) and product should be applied to both sides of
the strand. The heat from the scalp will allow the product to spread upward toward the scalp.
However, if you need to apply product closer to the scalp, do so only after you have applied it to
the midstrand throughout the head first. Never apply product directly on the scalp. The relaxer
product is applied to the perimeter hairline last since the hairline is sensitive to breakage and is
usually finer in texture.
474
SALON FUNDAMENTALS
Virgin Application
MIDSTRAND, BASE THEN ENDS
Retouch Application
BASE ONLY