There are no established times for lightening hair to any given degree. Time always varies with the
individual client because of the natural pigmentation and resistance of the hair. Different manu-
facturer's products may also have an effect on timing. The best way to find out the correct time (as
well as determine if the hair is in proper condition for lightening) is to perform a preliminary strand
test and follow manufacturer's directions.
If the desired color result is different from
what can be achieved with decolorizing or
lightening alone, color can be applied to
recolorize the hair to the shade desired.
This process involves two steps:
1. The hair is decolorized (prelightened)
to the desired degree, which is usual-
ly within two levels of the existing
hair color. (This is sometimes called
pigment foundation, contributing pig-
ment or undertone.)
2. Hair color is applied to create the
final color result. (This can be an
oxidative or nonoxidative color or
toner.)
On-the-Scalp Lighteners
There are two categories of lighteners:
on-the-scalp and off-the-scalp. As the
name implies, on-the-scalp lighteners can be applied directly on the scalp, since they are considered
milder than off-the-scalp lighteners and are available in two forms: oil and cream. Both of these
lighteners have a pH around 9 and can be mixed with an activator (accelerator, booster) to increase
the speed of the oxidation process. The main difference between oil and cream lighteners is their
consistency. Besides having a thicker consistency, which prevents the product from dripping, cream
lighteners also contain conditioners.
Off-the-Scalp Lighteners
Off-the-scalp lighteners come in powder form and, when mixed with peroxide, become a strong
lightening product. Because they have no added oils or creams, they can irritate the scalp, causing
burns and blisters. This is why they are generally used for off-the-scalp procedures, such as paint-
ing. Keep in mind, however, that there are some powder lighteners that contain buffering agents and
conditioners, which allow them to be used on and off the scalp. To ensure client safety, always read
manufacturer's directions.
HAIR COLORING
1
3
513
LIGHTENER
APPLICATION
DECOLORIZES
BEFORE
TONER
APPLICATION
RECOLORIZES
FINAL COLOR RESULT
