Permanent
Permanent hair colors are mixed with hydrogen peroxide and are
capable of both lifting natural pigment and depositing artificial pig-
ment in one process. They are sometimes called oxidative tints with
ammonia or aniline derivative tints.
Paraphenylenediamine (para-PHE-
ni-line-i-DIA-min) and paratoluenediamine (para-tol-U-ene-i-DIA-min) are
two types of dye intermediates, either one of which can be found in permanent tints.
Permanent
hair colors contain small colorless molecules (para-dyes) that become colored when mixed
with hydrogen peroxide. Once they are applied to the hair, the oxidative color swells the
hair strand.
The small colored molecules enter the hair with the aid of an an alkaline substance
(alkalizing ingredient), such as ammonia.
Then, as they oxidize in the cuticle and the
cortex, they link or couple together to form a
permanent colored molecule. When this hap-
pens, they are permanently anchored in the
hair.
It is the combination of the ammo-
nia in permanent hair colors and hydro-
gen peroxide that allow for the lift and
lightening of the hair's natural color.
The
stonger the hydrogen peroxide, the greater
the lift achieved. You will learn more about
hydrogen peroxide later in this chapter.
Permanent hair colors, as the name
implies, are permanent. In some instances,
a color remover or dye solvent can be used
to remove unwanted artificial pigment.
Once you have removed the unwanted pig-
ment, you may recolor the hair as desired.
Permanent hair colors have become one of the most popular color products used in the salon,
since they offer the colorist a wide range of color possibilities. The colorist can choose from
many levels and tones to create an infinite number of hair colors.
Permanent colors can add
tone or darken the existing hair or lighten and deposit color in a single process.
They
are mixed with various strengths of developer, depending on the desired amount of lift and/or
deposit. Most permanent hair colors are mixed with 20 volume (6%) hydrogen peroxide. High-
lift tints, (a type of permanent hair color) are designed to achieve lighter colors and are gener-
ally mixed with a double amount of 30 volume (9%) or 40 volume (12%) hydrogen peroxide.
When mixing permanent hair colors, be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions since chang-
ing either the amount or the volume of the peroxide can affect the lift and deposit achieved.
HAIR COLORING
1
3
509
COLOR
APPLICATION
SMALL COLOR
MOLECULES ENTER
CORTEX SOME
COUPLE TOGETHER
FINAL COLOR RESULT
