Practice rolling the thermal iron toward you (standing in back of
your model, this will be a downward rotation) while opening and
closing the clamp at regular intervals.
Practice rolling the thermal iron away from you (standing in back
of your model, this will be an upward rotation) while opening and
closing the clamp at regular intervals.
Practice rolling the hair first in one direction and then in another.
End each curling rotation by releasing the hair, which is done by
opening and closing the clamp in a quick "clicking" movement.
Thermal Iron Considerations
Cleaning marcel irons or pressing combs can be accomplished by running fine-grade steel wool
along the barrel of the iron while it is still slightly warm to remove any styling residue. Some styl-
ists like to then place wax paper around the warm iron to put a wax coating on the surface of the
barrel, which will allow the comb to glide smoothly through the hair. Clean the iron in the direc-
tion that the hair flows across the barrel. That is, move the wool pad around the circumference of
the barrel, not vertically (base to tip). This precaution ensures that hair will not flow against the
grain and be damaged. This steel wool method should not be used on barrels with Teflon or other
coatings. Steel wool can chip and wear off the coating, leading to abrasion during use. Use only a
gentle cleaning method on coated irons.
Close a hot iron lightly on a damp towel before curling extremely damaged or bleached hair. This step
is not necessary for most hair types, but with damaged hair, you want to cool the iron and assess the
heat before it is applied. Some tinted hair, white hair and very fine hair will benefit by testing the iron
as well and proceeding with a lower iron temperature. This testing can prevent scorching or dryness.
Choose an iron with even heat distribution. Use appliances that heat up uniformly across the barrel
with no cool spots. Uniform heat will avoid uneven curls. Remember that a metal curling iron
holder retains heat. If you use a metal holder be sure to test the temperature of the iron before using
it on your client's hair. Never test an iron's heat by touching it with your fingers or placing close to
your nose to smell if it is hot. You can sufficiently judge the amount of heat it's giving off by bring-
ing your hand very near the barrel, without touching it.
Curling Iron Techniques
Following are examples of different curling iron techniques and various texture patterns that can
be achieved by varying the position of the curling iron along the hair strand. Curling irons are
usually cylindrical in shape and create the texture pattern that reflects their diameter. Refer to
"Hairstyling Fundamentals" in this chapter for volume and indentation base control information.
336
SALON FUNDAMENTALS
"Take good care of your ther-
mal tools. Dropping them and
neglecting to clean them will
result in poor performance."
