Air Forming with Round Brush
Air forming with a blow dryer in one hand and a round brush in the
other hand allows you to dry the hair quickly as you change the form,
direction and texture of the hair. The diameter of the round brush
you choose will influence the resulting curl pattern. Smaller brushes
are used for curlier styles or short hair. Larger brushes are used for
smoother results or for longer hair. Some brushes have metal cores,
which retain heat and allow you to create stronger curl patterns.
Determine the size and firmness of the curl by selecting a brush with
the diameter that matches the size of the curl desired and by adjust-
ing the temperature of the blow dryer to set the desired firmness of the
curl. For volume, the brush is positioned underneath the hair. For
indentation, the brush is positioned on top of the hair. Refer to "Hair-
styling Fundamentals" in this chapter for base control information.
The Hot Brush or Comb
The hot brush, also called a curling brush, and the hot comb
are similar to the blow dryer because they create an airflow
but they can also curl the hair. Both styling tools have small
motors that force air over a heating element and a slotted
barrel that holds the brush or metal comb attachment. It is
the combination of the airflow that dries the hair and the
heat that is retained in the barrel that allows you to intro-
duce the new curl patterns.
These styling tools are used to finish hair that is almost com-
pletely dry while simultaneously creating volume, waves or
curls anywhere from the scalp to the ends of the hair, which
is known as air waving.
Hair Pressing
Hair pressing or "silking" is a form of temporarily straightening overly curly hair. Once the hair is
shampooed and conditioned, it is blown dry with tension to begin to reduce the natural curl pat-
tern. A protective oil is applied, and then a hot pressing comb or silking iron (straightening iron)
is used on small sections of hair to further straighten the curl. Because the pressing service can
require the stylist to heat the hair for a longer period of time than other thermal services, analyzing
the type and condition of the hair is particularly important. You need to condition the hair often to
protect against breakage, dry scalp, split ends and dull appearance. Avoid pressing chemically
damaged hair. Hair pressing results last until the next shampoo.
The diameter of the hair is also very important. Fine hair is especially delicate and must be treated
gently. Less heat and pressure should be applied to fine hair than to other types of hair to avoid
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