thin hair. Density is usually referred to as light, medium or heavy (sometimes as thin, medium
or thick). Density of the hair influences the amount of hair that should be parted and wrapped
around a perm rod, roller or curling iron. Heavy density requires smaller subsections than light
hair to allow for absorption of styling and processing lotions. In addition, placing too much hair
on a perm rod or roller weakens the expected curl. Larger subsections can be used for light
density hair.
2.
Determine your client's hair condition
Once you know the type of hair fiber with which you will be working, you need to know the
condition of that fiber. The condition of the hair is usually determined by two key factors:
a.
Hair porosity, the amount of moisture able to be absorbed by hair.
Raised cuticles
influence the amount of liquid that can penetrate the hair. Resistant porosity describes hair that
is able to absorb the least amount of moisture, usually due to the closeness of the cuticle layers.
Resistant porosity is also called "poor porosity." Average porosity describes hair with the normal
ability to absorb moisture. Such hair is in good condition, suitable for most services. Extreme
porosity describes hair that is damaged from chemical services, such as overprocessing or the
environment. Hair with extreme porosity is not in good condition and would require treatments
prior to chemical services. Uneven porosity is a combination of both porosities.
b.
Hair elasticity, the ability of hair to stretch and return to its original shape without
breaking.
Elasticity is also referred to as resiliency. Additional descriptive words to use
when discussing elasticity with your client include pliability, buoyancy and springiness. Hair
with normal elasticity is lively, able to spring back and usually has a shiny appearance.
Normal dry hair is capable of being stretched about one-fifth of its length. Wet hair
is able to be stretched 40% to 50% of its length.
Test for Structural Strength
While visual examination for elasticity is not absolutely accurate, it can tell you a great deal. Just by
looking at the hair and handling it, you'll make judgements about what it needs. You can also
perform this test for elasticity. (Note that this test is intended for straight or wavy hair.)
· Remove a strand of hair from the side of the head above
the ears.
· Hold it between your thumb and forefinger and, with
your thumbnail and index finger of the other hand, run
the distance of hair rapidly as you would curl a ribbon
with scissors. This will create a series of small curls.
· Gently pull the hair taut for 10 seconds and
release. If the hair completely, or almost completely,
returns to the curl pattern, it is in good condition. If it
returns only 50% or less, it is structurally weak and
needs conditioning.
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SALON FUNDAMENTALS
GOOD
WEAK
