The length of time a conditioner should be left on the hair depends on its formulation and purpose.
Sometimes the addition of heat is recommended to open the cuticle, which allows for better pene-
tration. Read the manufacturer's instructions before applying.
Remember, hair "damage" generally refers to bonds (disulfide, etc.) that have been broken through
the application of chemical services or thermal styling. Conditioners don't actually repair broken
bonds, but rather fortify the damaged areas of the hair and protect it against further damage from
chemical services or heat. They may also alter the way hair behaves, giving it less stretch or reduc-
ing the relaxation of a set. Conditioners provide a temporary remedy for existing hair problems.
1.
Instant conditioners
coat the hair shaft and restore moisture and oils, but do not
penetrate into the cortex or replace keratin in the shaft. Instant conditioners usually have a
vegetable oil base, an acidic pH and are not recommended for fine and limp hair. They are
generally left on the hair for 1-2 minutes, then rinsed off.
2. Normalizing conditioners
also usually contain a vegetable protein and have an acidic pH
which causes the cuticle to close after alkaline chemical services. They are generally applied for
approximately 2 minutes and rinsed off.
3. Body-building conditioners
are required when hair is
fine and limp and contains too much moisture to maintain a good
style. The formula, with protein, will penetrate into the damaged
hair shaft and deposit proteins into the cortex. The proteins
displace the excess moisture, providing more body to the hair. This
modifies the delicate moisture/protein balance and makes the hair
more manageable and able to hold a style for a longer period of
time. Protein conditioners may be used before chemical services
to help ensure their success. They are usually left on about
10 minutes. However, always follow manufacturer's instructions.
4. Moisturizing conditioners
contain hydrolyzed animal
proteins and are recommended for dry, brittle hair that has been
mechanically or chemically damaged. The humectants (moistur-
izing ingredients) in a moisturizing conditioner will penetrate into
each hair shaft to bind and hold moisture in the hair. These con-
ditioners form a thin film on the cuticle, acting as a barrier to keep
moisture from escaping. Moisturizing conditioners should not be
used for several days after a perm or it will go limp. Follow
manufacturer's directions for the length of time to leave on the
hair after shampooing.
5. Customized conditioners
are formulated to meet special needs. When a client's hair
requires a combination of moisturizing and body-building properties, you may customize the
127
5
CHEMISTRY
BODY-BUILDING AGENTS
(PROTEIN, POLYMERS)
LOW pH
CONSTRICTS
FIBER
H
2
O
HUMECTANTS
H
2
O
EMOLLIENTS
